europe Archives - Page 2 of 3

0 In travel

a Paris museum day, via Velib

We couldn’t start our first full day of museums without securing our transportation, so once caffeinated we headed to pick up our wheels. I was super excited for us to get Velib day passes and bike around Paris!

I pink puffy heart love museums, so I wanted to go go go to them all, but David not so much. So we compromised on a two day pass, with daily agendas of musts and maybes, and intermittent snack and sightsee breaks. It was a positively dreamy experience to ride down streets like these.

We purchased our museum passes at the Rodin Museum, our first stop. The gardens were so stunning and sunshiny, with the statues gleaming and glinting in the sunlight, I couldn’t help but thank Mother Nature. I’ve seen Rodin’s sculpturework before, but the collection all together and the atmosphere were really beautiful.

I cracked up when I saw this picture David snuck- totally unposed! Even though it’s a little blurry, it’s too funny not to share. #bootylicious

Riding all through Paris was so exhilarating! I loved exploring the city in the sunshine, and my body appreciated moving differently from all the walking we had been doing. That said, I wear a helmet at home, so riding through traffic bareheaded was more than a little terrifying. We shared lanes with buses and taxis, so I was just super cautious as not to become Regina George 2.0. We rode to Pierre Herme for some snacks and sweets (more on that later), and then to the Musee d’Orsay.

It was absolutely striking in there, from the arching glass ceilings to that glorious golden clock. Strike me down and call me gaudy, but I love me some ornate antique gold. And the light streaming everywhere was just heavenly.

I had researched exhibition lists while selecting museums to visit, and really did want to see it all- I love Impressionism. So I went from area to area, inspecting displays and reading every informational card- I’m nerdy like that, but I was loving it!

Looking out through the giant clock gave us gorgeous views of Paris. I would have loved to enjoy it longer and see if I could pick out places, while David snapped away. But the area was crowded with rude tourists and unattended children, and I couldn’t handle the fracas for very long. I sound like I’m turning into my granny, but it’s so true!

We escaped to the relative quiet of the the rooftop for a little bit, and enjoyed the birds-eye view, before heading back down and wandering through the museum once more before heading out to our bikes and back into the boulevards of Paris.

We rode across the Seine, just having the best time! We couldn’t help but pull over for a few minutes to admire the river, attempt our typically awful selfies, people watch, and assess the map and agenda. (For the record, this phone charger was clutch on days like this.)

We arrived at this beautiful courthouse, where we parked our bikes and walked around to enter Sainte Chappelle. I was glad for the cut-the-line privileges of our museum passes, because the line was crazy long. Once we walked in, though, I totally understood why.

Pictures really cannot capture the magical quality of Sainte Chappelle. The light through all that brightly colored glass was just incredible, and I nearly broke my neck admiring the gorgeous ceilings. I inched around the perimeter looking at the statues and admiring the gilt work, and marveling at the sheer volume- the architecture amplified the tourist hubbub.

I knew our next activity would be chilly, and wanted to change into something warmer. So we rode our bikes back towards the Marais, grabbing falafel (again) on Rue de Roisers before stopping at our apartment. It was nice to recharge and refresh briefly, but we had one more attraction to see that afternoon, so were on our way again soon…

loveRavayna

November 18, 2015

0 In travel

breakfast and blooms

Another beautiful day in Paris began with a refreshingly crisp morning. We started our day in Les Invalides, gearing up for a full day of museum gawking and a bit of exercise.

There’s no better way to wake up than with flaky goodness and a side of caffeine, in my opinion. Pain et Chocolat provided my early morning fuel- a namesake pastry and a grand crème. After the bottomless wine brouhaha the night before, I was grateful for the option to supersize my usual café crème.

As I build travel agendas, I allow plenty of extra time for wandering, inspecting, and loafing about. Taking the scenic route as always, we came across a beautiful little pocket park. Square Samuel Rousseau was an oasis along our walk, perfect to sit for a few minutes.

So many flowers were in bloom in the small garden, the air was fragrant as the sun began warming them. The hyacinth were especially heady, and I was just astonished at what gorgeous weather Mother Nature was gifting us.

We admired the design of the Army Museum’s exterior as we walked past. It looked so distinguished, with rows of antique cannons, I had to check the map and identify it. I was highly caffeinated, giddy on sunshine, and beyond excited to spend the day nerding out at museums. I swear I giggled every time I spotted the Eiffel Tower, falling more in love with Paris by the moment.

loveRavayna

November 14, 2015

0 In travel

more than montmartre

We took no pictures at the Shoah Memorial. While it is elegantly designed, it was too heartwrenching of an experience to even think about photography. We were solemn from the start- the knowledge that the museum exists as a World War II reparation and that anti-semitism is still common enough in France to necessitate a fleet of armed guards and metal detectors set that tone.

Some portions of the memorial haunted me, then and now. The way the bronze cylinder echoes the chimneys of the death camps, how the room of “fichier juif” (the Vichy police files identifying Jews) had a special section for detained children, seeing the only photographs in existence of the crematoriums and graves, taken from the inside of the camps, and reading the stories of those few who survived- it all unsettled my soul. I’ve never been a more reverent place than the crypt, where a black marble Star of David contains the ashes of unknown martyred jews from the death camps and the Warsaw ghetto. Ner tamid, an eternal light, burns in memoriam.

And then the Wall of Names in the courtyard undid me. Being surrounded by the names of French citizens who perished at the hands of, or fighting against, intolerance was an overwhelming experience. Our last name was once Cohen, changed when David’s ancestors emigrated. Multiple sections of the wall memorialize those who shared our name.

I’ll be honest- the Shoah shattered me. My eyes were swollen shut from crying and I was just an emotional mess. As we left the memorial, we were relieved that the rest of the day’s agenda was happier. We were pretty quiet on the way to Montmartre, and decided to make a cafe our first stop.

After a few cocktails and some conversation across from the Moulin Rouge, I was feeling a little less like a basketcase. Never underestimate the power of a stiff drink to help you pull yourself together. Eager to explore, we hit the cobblestone.

I was excited to come across Cafe des Moulins, as Amelie was one of the movies we watched on the train from Barcelona to Paris.

We wandered Montmartre aimlessly, planning only to end at le Refuge des Fondus for our dinner reservation. We arrived ready for bottomless baby bottles of wine and all the cheese we could eat.

They served our glasses of dry rosè with a chunky sugar rim, which I love and now do all the time. Our predinner snacks were generous, with quality charcuterie, and a scrumptious spicy potato salad I’m currently tweaking here at home.

And the baby bottles were hysterical. It felt odd for the first minute, but then seemed totally normal. They helpfully facilitated my drinking- they had cut the nipples to increase flow, and refills were frequent. As throughout our trip, we found the house wine to be rather good. L’chaim!

I’m picky about my fondue, and this was seriously yummy liquid gold. Refuge is known to be more touristy than my typical foodie choices, so I was glad when the caliber of food was unaffected by the festivities. As the night progressed, my minimal photography skills further deteriorated… it all got a bit blurry.

We ate and drank unreasonable quantities, making friends and toasting with the other guests, since we were all together at the communal tables. The boisterousness was the perfect antidote to the earlier part of the day, and we really let it wash over us.

I was a total tourist and insisted on autographing the wall before carefully climbing out of my seat. Did I mention that the path to seats near the wall is over the table, holding the hand of the waiter? It was far wobblier on the way out than in- I was glad we were closing them down.

As we walked along the boulevard and back through Montmartre to take the metro home to the Marais, the Moulin Rouge (and every cheesy wannabe night or gentlemen’s club) were all aglow in a gloriously tacky neon spectacle. It felt almost like Parisian Vegas, and we found it all very amusing.

loveRavayna

November 10, 2015

0 In travel

shopping à Paris

I told y’all all about our flea market excursion, but that was just the beginning of my Paris shopping- I made more than a few store stops as we explored the city. We began at Orange to get a French SIM card for my iPhone- an absolute necessity.

The BHV was right by our apartment, and became a running joke- I have a terrible sense of direction, but it was like my magnetic north. I loved browsing books and stationery, housewares and decor, and dug the mix of designer and high street brands.

Part design exhibition, part gorgeously styled boutique, it’s easy to see why merci is popular. The clothes and objets and decor were all impossibly chic, even down to the garden tools, the washing machine installation wall was interactive, and the cute and yummy cafe on the garden floor was packed.

The red car out front is photobait, and rightfully so! I brought home red gingham fabric napkins that tear off the roll like paper towels, and wooden cutlery carved to look like fancy silverware.
We loved Deyrolle, where no pictures are permitted. It’s a taxidermy shop with a sense of humor- literally, the lion lays down with the lamb. They have so many diverse specimens, exploring the store is a true adventure. We had no intent to purchase, but this is some seriously cool window shopping, and would recommend it highly (as long as you’re not vegan or squeamish about stuffed game).

When it came pharmacy time, I had a to-buy list ready to go. I take skincare and such really seriously, so I had done my research on the offerings. Bioderma and Embryolisse are standbys for me, so I was happy to stock up without the import tax, as well as on anti-inflammatory patches that are spendy at home, Homeoplasmine and la Roche Posay sunblock.

I’m always really into foreign grocery stores, and Paris was no exception. David had to stop me from trying to buy way more cheese than we could reasonably eat. And I loved how the Monoprix had food and family shopping all in one space, like a French Target.

But for serious foodie shopping, we went to Les Halles.

David Leibovitz has never once led me wrong, and E. Dehillerin was no exception. I lusted after the gorgeous copper pots and new knives, but made more reasonable purchases. After eating with tongs at Tickets, we got some for home. I also picked up new biscuit cutters, and I should have gotten a canelé mold- I became obsessed and wish I could make them myself!

G. Tetou is nearby, so we headed there next. This immaculate shop is filled with the most amazing assortment of food and sweets- the wall of chocolate made my mouth water. Valhrona is my preferred major chocolate brand, and their dulcey (32% caramelized white chocolate) is pretty much crack. David’s eyebrows went sky high when I requested the 3 kilo package from from behind the counter, but it’s been so delicious!

I really tried hard have some self control in there- I wanted to buy and try everything! Along with excessive quantities of chocolate, I purchased Puy lentils, chestnut cream and paste, duck pate, harissa, and puree de piment d’espelette.

I also did a fair bit of solo shopping in Paris, which is obviously less documented. David was not about to complain if I went to a boutique as he lingered over his cocktail for a few or waited in a line. So I went to Galeries Lafayette for Longchamp Le Pliage totes (navy for myself, red for a girlfriend) and also nabbed that cute cobalt convertible crossbody. I checked out Antoine et Lili, bought my favorite summer sneakers at Bensimon, grabbed some incredible tea at Mariage Freres, and stopped at more than a few well-recommended vintage boutiques. On the whole, I found them beautifully-curated but rather overpriced. That said, Atelier Catherine B is truly a little jewel box of vintage Chanel and Hermes goodies, and worth the visit just to drool.

And I peeked into lots of other stores in passing- pretty much anytime I saw something tempting. I’m good at speed shopping so David doesn’t get too impatient. There were dozens of other shops I had mapped that I didn’t get to- there is just SO much good shopping in Paris! Just another reason to return to the City of Lights…

loveRavayna

November 8, 2015

2 In style/ travel

WiW: Parisian lace and layers

I may not be Elizabeth Arden, but I sure love me a red door, almost as much as I love accenting my cherry red leather purse with a classic matte red lip. We couldn’t help but grab some pictures when we spotted this doorway as we walked to our morning croissant and cafe.

I stand firmly that leopard is a neutral- black, brown and tan all are! I adore this scarf for its compact warmth, cozy softness, and versatility. It’s not quite a blanket scarf, but plenty big enough.

This dress has given me its money’s worth- it’s H&M Conscious Collection from several seasons ago. It originally had sheer lace sleeves, but I tore one to shreds out one night. Once I had the dress tailored to sleeveless, I started wearing it all the time. Here, I layered with a light wash chambray shirt against the early morning chill.

I wore trusty black ankle booties on my toes, Nars Red Square on my lips. Rose gold aviators and a chunky Marc Jacobs watch added a little functional shine to the look.

And as the Parisian sunshine warmed the day, I shed my layers and was perfectly ready for adventures in the heat.

loveRavayna

November 5, 2015

0 In travel

an Eiffel Tower afternoon

After a healthy nap, we felt refreshed enough to unpack and put up our bags in our tiny apartment. Once done, we headed out for a late afternoon stroll. The Eiffel Tower was our destination, and I squealed like a five-year-old when I rounded a corner and spotted it for the first time, not gonna lie.

Presale reservation tickets to climb to the top of the Eiffel had already sold out when we began planning our trip, but we’d both made the climb as teens so decided to take a pass this trip. As we basked in the shadow of the tower and eyed the waiting crowd, our choice was reaffirmed. Relaxing on the lawn was the much better idea.

So we claimed a patch of grass for our own and soaked the atmosphere- watching the other tourists, declining to purchase trinkets, and just talking. We broke out the selfie stick, but weren’t concerned in the least about getting good pictures with the tower- we’d be taking care of that later in the week.

Kids at heart, we contemplated the carousel, but again, line, and I’ll be honest that it was a bit in disrepair. We chose to walk near the Seine for a little while instead, before we headed underground to the metro.

We had a lovely walk upon emerging in Alesia, headed to our new friend Jim’s house for dinner. We’d first heard of Jim Haynes and his Sunday suppers on NPR, and then my friend Julie, who visited on her honeymoon, recommended it as well. A bit of an unplugged situation, we put up the camera with our coats and enjoyed the conversation and company.

The precious garden past the gate and the accompanying cottage soon filled with interesting new friends: a few locals interspersed with people from Berlin and Nigeria, Tokyo and Toronto, Austin and Amsterdam, San Francisco and St Tropez. Can’t leave out charming Jim himself, a Louisiana boy who’s been living in Paris and hosting these salons for fifty to a hundred people weekly for thirty years. It was a lovely evening- very French, friendly and intimate. We enjoyed a scrummy homecooked bœuf bourguignon and delicious apple galette, and drank wine and visited late into the night.

loveRavayna

November 3, 2015

1 In travel

a Paris morning at Marche aux Puces

We arrived in Paris via TGV late at night, and it was after midnight by the time we got to our apartment, still needing to eat and unpack a bit before bed. We woke up just hours later to metro to Vanves, on the outskirts of Paris. Flea marketing in France was on the top of my to-do list, so I wanted to be at Le Marche aux Puces for 9 at the latest, but that was a struggle. The boulangerie en route to the metro was clutch, as it kickstarted an early morning croissant-and-cafe-creme habit. Let’s keep it real: David is not a morning person in the best of situations, we were both pretty tired, and I was nervy about not having a French data plan for gps yet. But caffeine and pain au chocolat were necessary fuel, and I was awake and back to being giddy about being in Paris by the time we got off the metro.

And as we walked into the market, I pretty much morphed into a heart-eyes emoji. ?

I didn’t mind the somewhat crowded sidewalks since they were lined with treasures, and I was in no rush. I meandered along, looking at each vendor’s wares. I nabbed an antique cheese knife, for picnicking, and a few other little bits, but lots of things were unreasonable to transport home.

I’m always interested in a le Creuset collection, so the rows of brightly enameled pots drew me in. And then I thought about having to lug that iron weight home and moved right on along.

Nothing’s more likely to get me happily digging than a basket of vintage linens. (As I wrote that, I literally thought to myself ‘my poor husband.’) R and C are difficult monograms to find, as is good vintage condition, but when I do, it’s like striking gold.

That happened a little later, as I perused a stand of vintage gloves. The darling shop madame exclaimed over my minuscule hands, and pulled a valise from near her register. It was filled with gloves too tiny to be available to try on (and stretch out) but that fit me perfectly. After lovely conversation and careful deliberation, I ended up with an elbow-length blush leather pair and handcut ivory leather racing gloves.

Vintage glassware gives me some serious lust, especially gold-accented or brightly colored. I knew from my attempts with Spanish wine that I would not be shipping souvenirs home, so I loved them and left them.

The same went for this sweet puppy. He was so gentle and loveable, I certainly wanted to take him home, but I settled for a good visit while I shopped within his domain.

I’ve been obsessing over calligraphy in the wild, so I was fascinated by the collection of travel photo journals with roundhand captions. I could have flipped through every single one- the gentleman who authored them had beautiful adventures. But after several hours of patiently supporting my shopping, David needed feeding, and we both needed to get our nap out. So we headed back to our apartment in the Marais, stopping for lunch at Poilâne, the boulangerie around the corner.

paris-poilane-saladsoup paris-pouline-gloveswfood paris-poilane-bakery

Fresh salad and the most incredible bread, fragrant cheese and velvety brandade soup, the fixed lunch menu was amazing. My duck tartine nearly made me weep with pleasure, and two glasses of rosé disappeared with the help of a few enthusiastic toasts. The most perfect little shortbread cookies, their house special “punitions,” ended the meal, and I couldn’t help but shopping in the bakery for more goodies. As we headed around the corner to our walkup to rest and unpack, I was delirious- both with exhaustion and sheer excitement and delight at being in Paris.

loveRavayna

November 2, 2015

2 In food/ travel

The best Tickets in Barcelona

One of the things I was most excited about on our Eurotrip was eating at Tickets. In all seriousness, I set an alarm to wake at 2:55 am one night two months before our trip to score the reservation, and it was worth every bit of wasted sleep.

As a foodie, this was a serious bucket list item for me. I was on the waiting list for a reservation at el Bullí when Ferran Adrià announced its closure, and was heartbroken at the thought of having missed my chance. So this, his brother’s restaurant, was the next best thing. The Michelin star was reflected in well-executed decor and lovely service. And as we settled in to our seats at the open kitchen, to watch the chefs execute our tasting menu and enjoy our caparainhas, I knew we were in for the meal of a lifetime.

Mini airbags de queso were served on a platter of rock salt. Filled with Manchego foam, topped with aged Manchego, caviar, and pimentón, it was a cascade of flavors and textures.

Then I had my mind blown by the legendary el Bullí olives. Alignate spherification encases an intense olive purée just until it dissolves on your tongue. I am no olive fan, but these were glorious and a little bit life changing.

Our oyster course included two delicious variations. I especially loved the second, where the oyster was served with its pearl (spherified champagne and powdered silver). Full disclosure, I might have been influenced by the darling waitress who suggested it was because I was una princesa and complimented my skirt.

Monica was the most perfect waitress ever, for the record. So solicitous about indulging our palates and preferences throughout the tasting menu, and so enthusiastic when discussing the food with us, but never a bother. We exchanged addresses and emails, I adored Moní that much.

She’d just brought me my next cocktail, with a dragonfruit base and dry ice cloud, when I was admiring the fancy gold-wrapped jamón iberico gran reserva on the counter. I watched as another waiter lifted the entire ham and its stand to deliver to a nearby table, and I nearly fainted when I realized who was sitting there… Albert and Ferran Adrià.

I’m not typically the type to get starstruck, but Ferran Adrià is practically a god. Some people hunt big 5 game, but my big five is Choi, Chang, Bourdain, Ripert, and Adrià. The hero worship is real. So after I worked up the guts to stop creeping and staring at the master of molecular gastronomy, I was grateful to have Monica to translate. I was practically vibrating as I held his hands and fawned and babbled about how he inspired me and food and love and cried a little and god knows what all else- sucked to be David attempting to get a picture of my hot mess, and I was too much of a wilting violet to bother him again. The entire exchange is a blur, but I will never forget it as long as I live.

It seemed almost silly to eat when I was so excited, but the next arrival brought my attention right back to the plate. Crunchy pizza with Bufala straciatella is one of the most popular tapas on the menu, and it was easy to see why. Shatteringly crisp crust, brightly flavorful dehydrated tomato dust microbasil and spherified basil oil are topped with strands of creamy burrata. It was at the same time both definitively a margherita pizza yet completely unlike any pizza I’d ever had.

Scrumptious smoked eel mini sandwiches were accented with shiso leaf. The bread was an ultralight and crispy air baguette, a perfect contrast to the tender unagi.

Crabmeat and vegetables were delivered in delicate cucumber rolls, served floating in a watercress broth.

This dish was dubbed the Nordic landscape. Veal tartare, lingonberry, shallots, soft smoked cheese and greens were piled upon a dark crisp bread and dusted with sherry vinegar ‘snow.’ We were loving the experience of eating with tongs rather than traditional cutlery.

The suckling pig mollete was a delicious grilled jamón y queso sandwich. The tender bread was totally unique to me, with the delicacy of a steamed bao but the crumb and crust of an English muffin.

Roasted sunchokes and celeriac were drenched in a rich truffle purée. My mouth is watering just remembering- I’m pretty sure I fought David for the last bite of this goodness.

Korean king oyster mushrooms were spiralized into spaghetti, and serves in a creamy Parmesan porcini sauce. The texture was just impeccable, and the umami was so perfectly highlighted.

Spicy fresh tuna tartare was served on a nori mille-feuille with popped tapioca. Fresh and delicious, the different textures combined beautifully, in a way that recalled California sushi bar tuna crispy rice.

Maresme was bright and refreshing. Whole Catalán green peas floated in delicate pea soup, drizzled with fennel jus and and sprinkled with crunchy pancetta.

Even dessert was a three-course affair- my sweet tooth was thrilled! The first was caramelized carrot cones, with a fluffy queso center. All the best aspects of carrot cake and cheesecake, they were served planted in chocolate soil.

The meringue churros were positively meltaway. I could barely stop nibbling to dip them in the rich spiced hot chocolate, but I was glad I did- the two together were incredible.

A seriously scientific candy bar, the molecular chocolate eclair was just plain delicious. Crispy rice and a peanut butter center enrobed in chocolate may sound typical, but it was outstanding.

A dessert drink to share rounded out our meal. Cocoa and citrus combined with cachaça for a cocktail that managed to be equally rich and refreshing. And then my new friend Ferran sent over shots of his family reserve orange-and-limoncello and I was so flattered I could have died right there on the spot, and I’m certain I would have ascended straight to heaven.

After such amazing food and drink and the emotion of surprise hero worship, you could have stuck a fork in me, I was so done. Our incredible dinner experience had stretched more than four hours, so we paid the (substantial) bill and headed out for a moon-and-neon-lit walk home.

loveRavayna

October 29, 2015

1 In travel

Barcelonian beauty

Our apartment on el Born was super centrally located in Barcelona, and the perfect base for running all over the city and getting to the different places we wanted to visit. But the Gothic Quarter was truly beautiful in its own right, and I loved making it our home away from home.

Being right in el Barrí Gòtic meant that we walked around a corner and ran straight into the Barcelona Catedral. Stunning does not even begin to capture the vision. The detailing on the cathedral was so intricate, it was mesmerizing- like the most beautiful hand-tooled lace. I swear, I was more interested in Christian houses of worship on this trip than I’ve ever been before or since!

As we walked through our neighborhood, I kept exclaiming over one pretty detail after another. I was obsessed with the flowers and the wrought iron, not to mention those quatrefoil sidewalks. In typical blogger style, I get excited over gorgeous doorways. I hate being so basic but I can’t help it when they are this pretty!

I make a point of visiting parks and community spaces when we travel, and nearby Parc de la Ciutadella was no exception. It was the perfect place to sit and soak in the sunshine for a bit, to plan our next activity or rest our feet.

Walking between nearby buildings, we came across a little courtyard. We’d sometimes sit for a moment there, and enjoy watching the world go by. One day it was occupied by by some Spanish children and a gentleman with bubbles. Like kids the world over, they were pretty cute, and an audience gathered to watch them frolic.

We made sure to go walking down by the Balearic Sea. Barceloneta along the water was so beautiful, and the docks were filled with sailboats. The breeze was brisk and the weather was too cool for beaching and sunbathing, but we still reveled in the salt air.

We’d planned to check out Sant Pau Recinte, but arrived to find they were closed for a private event. I’d heard raves about the interior architecture and gardens of this former hospital, so I was disappointed to miss out on those. But we enjoyed the beautiful exterior and made the most of it.

While touristing, we made a spontaneous executive decision to skip Palau Guell. The afternoon line seemed longer than reasonable and we’d walked our feet sore, so we decided to prioritize happy hour. We grabbed a few quick pictures and headed for siesta time at home.

A little leisure time was perfect, because we had amazing dinner reservations that night. Get excited, because details on that’s up next…

loveRavayna

October 27, 2015

0 In travel

some spanish shopping

I’m not quite joining shopaholics anonymous, but it’s common knowledge that I like to shop. I’m pretty value-oriented rather than frivolous when it comes to my purchases, so fortunately things don’t get too out of hand. Finite amounts of luggage space and David’s patience also kept my consumerism under control, but I definately hit some lovely shops in Barcelona and have a few good spoils to show for it.

La Manual Alpargatera was right at the top of my to-do list. My shoe collection is well over 300 pairs, so you could call me a shoe freak- and you’d be dead on. Coupled with my dedication to shopping local and supporting traditional artisans, I might have gone a little espadrille crazy.

We arrived right as they were reopening after siesta, and a small crowd had gathered. You receive a number upon entrance and select your styles, so you can specify sizes and colors when they call you. I was purchasing multiple pairs in an assortment of sizes and styles, and was very impressed with the attentive and patient service despite the waiting queue. I scored several colors of traditional espadrilles for myself, as well as for friends and family, and was a big fan of the lace-up style David chose.

But when I saw the glimmery muted gold sequins, I was sold. ? On two pairs, technically- needed to hook my bestie up too! And remember that espadrilles are made with natural fibers and will stretch, so don’t size up if they are snug while shopping.

We have Desigual here in the States- standalone stores and randomly in some airports. I’ve shopped there before, but the stores and selection are significantly larger within Spain. I like their funky styling, but I just looove their ad campaign with Winnie Harlow. For the unfamiliar, she’s an African American model with an advanced case of vitiligo. She is astoundingly gorgeous, and beyond inspirational when it comes to loving the skin you’re in. I loved seeing her fierceness all over the city- sometimes typical can just be boring. I will say that I find it disconcerting that Winnie anchors the Euro ads, but isn’t featured here in the US. Wish she was- she’s beautiful, and anything but basic.

We also wandered in and out of shops along our walks. While some shops were annoyingly touristy, I came across a bunch of little gems. There’s lots of great shopping in el Born- part of the reason we chose it as our home base. Carrer de Montecada wound up being one of our beaten paths, because it combined convenience with good shops and great people watching. We came across the most amusing puppeteer, and spent a little time enjoying the show.

Art Escudellers was recommended for having quality Spanish crafts and artwork, rather than the more chintzy stuff sold in every other storefront. I lusted over incredible hand-blown glassware and admired gorgeous ceramic serving dishes and the most intricate mosiacs. I took home a pretty hand-painted Star of David round with gold accents, thinking it would be perfect for the holidays.

El Coral is just a little nook, but don’t be fooled- it is home to some gorgeous artisan jewelry. Lots of local raw materials, like coral, pearls and other stones, all at some seriously amazing prices. I contemplated an incredible branch coral statement necklace, as well as a strand of amber-colored pearls, but decided to keep it simple with a new pair of white pearl studs. Classic and classy, they remind me of Barcelona every time I wear them, which is often.

Ale-hop is an inexpensive little chain, full of gems mixed in with the junk. I picked up a few scarves and some costume jewelry there, postcards and a few kitschy souvenirs, like a miniature snow globe for my niece’s collection. I think my favorite purchases were a Dali-inspired melting clock for our bedroom bookshelf, and quirky white sunnies. I actually bought them, managed to crush them in Paris, and went back for a replacement pair when we returned to Barcelona. They’re nothing fancy- I think I paid a whopping five euro- but I think they’re fun!

I also hit up Mango, Boo, Stradivarius, Boohoo and the other Spanish high street heavy hitters. I checked out Le Swing and Blow to see how the Spanish did vintage, and eyed the most gorgeous lacy bits at TCN. I like my souvenirs to be wearable, edible, or memorable- I want to feel like I’ve taken a city home with me. I was pleased with my packages- lots of good stuff, no touristy junk- my choices were purposeful and pretty.

Except for not getting to bring home a ham from la Boqueria– still sad/mad/hangry about that.

loveRavayna

October 23, 2015