paris Archives - Page 2 of 2

0 In travel

breakfast and blooms

Another beautiful day in Paris began with a refreshingly crisp morning. We started our day in Les Invalides, gearing up for a full day of museum gawking and a bit of exercise.

There’s no better way to wake up than with flaky goodness and a side of caffeine, in my opinion. Pain et Chocolat provided my early morning fuel- a namesake pastry and a grand crème. After the bottomless wine brouhaha the night before, I was grateful for the option to supersize my usual café crème.

As I build travel agendas, I allow plenty of extra time for wandering, inspecting, and loafing about. Taking the scenic route as always, we came across a beautiful little pocket park. Square Samuel Rousseau was an oasis along our walk, perfect to sit for a few minutes.

So many flowers were in bloom in the small garden, the air was fragrant as the sun began warming them. The hyacinth were especially heady, and I was just astonished at what gorgeous weather Mother Nature was gifting us.

We admired the design of the Army Museum’s exterior as we walked past. It looked so distinguished, with rows of antique cannons, I had to check the map and identify it. I was highly caffeinated, giddy on sunshine, and beyond excited to spend the day nerding out at museums. I swear I giggled every time I spotted the Eiffel Tower, falling more in love with Paris by the moment.

loveRavayna

November 14, 2015

0 In travel

more than montmartre

We took no pictures at the Shoah Memorial. While it is elegantly designed, it was too heartwrenching of an experience to even think about photography. We were solemn from the start- the knowledge that the museum exists as a World War II reparation and that anti-semitism is still common enough in France to necessitate a fleet of armed guards and metal detectors set that tone.

Some portions of the memorial haunted me, then and now. The way the bronze cylinder echoes the chimneys of the death camps, how the room of “fichier juif” (the Vichy police files identifying Jews) had a special section for detained children, seeing the only photographs in existence of the crematoriums and graves, taken from the inside of the camps, and reading the stories of those few who survived- it all unsettled my soul. I’ve never been a more reverent place than the crypt, where a black marble Star of David contains the ashes of unknown martyred jews from the death camps and the Warsaw ghetto. Ner tamid, an eternal light, burns in memoriam.

And then the Wall of Names in the courtyard undid me. Being surrounded by the names of French citizens who perished at the hands of, or fighting against, intolerance was an overwhelming experience. Our last name was once Cohen, changed when David’s ancestors emigrated. Multiple sections of the wall memorialize those who shared our name.

I’ll be honest- the Shoah shattered me. My eyes were swollen shut from crying and I was just an emotional mess. As we left the memorial, we were relieved that the rest of the day’s agenda was happier. We were pretty quiet on the way to Montmartre, and decided to make a cafe our first stop.

After a few cocktails and some conversation across from the Moulin Rouge, I was feeling a little less like a basketcase. Never underestimate the power of a stiff drink to help you pull yourself together. Eager to explore, we hit the cobblestone.

I was excited to come across Cafe des Moulins, as Amelie was one of the movies we watched on the train from Barcelona to Paris.

We wandered Montmartre aimlessly, planning only to end at le Refuge des Fondus for our dinner reservation. We arrived ready for bottomless baby bottles of wine and all the cheese we could eat.

They served our glasses of dry rosè with a chunky sugar rim, which I love and now do all the time. Our predinner snacks were generous, with quality charcuterie, and a scrumptious spicy potato salad I’m currently tweaking here at home.

And the baby bottles were hysterical. It felt odd for the first minute, but then seemed totally normal. They helpfully facilitated my drinking- they had cut the nipples to increase flow, and refills were frequent. As throughout our trip, we found the house wine to be rather good. L’chaim!

I’m picky about my fondue, and this was seriously yummy liquid gold. Refuge is known to be more touristy than my typical foodie choices, so I was glad when the caliber of food was unaffected by the festivities. As the night progressed, my minimal photography skills further deteriorated… it all got a bit blurry.

We ate and drank unreasonable quantities, making friends and toasting with the other guests, since we were all together at the communal tables. The boisterousness was the perfect antidote to the earlier part of the day, and we really let it wash over us.

I was a total tourist and insisted on autographing the wall before carefully climbing out of my seat. Did I mention that the path to seats near the wall is over the table, holding the hand of the waiter? It was far wobblier on the way out than in- I was glad we were closing them down.

As we walked along the boulevard and back through Montmartre to take the metro home to the Marais, the Moulin Rouge (and every cheesy wannabe night or gentlemen’s club) were all aglow in a gloriously tacky neon spectacle. It felt almost like Parisian Vegas, and we found it all very amusing.

loveRavayna

November 10, 2015

0 In travel

shopping à Paris

I told y’all all about our flea market excursion, but that was just the beginning of my Paris shopping- I made more than a few store stops as we explored the city. We began at Orange to get a French SIM card for my iPhone- an absolute necessity.

The BHV was right by our apartment, and became a running joke- I have a terrible sense of direction, but it was like my magnetic north. I loved browsing books and stationery, housewares and decor, and dug the mix of designer and high street brands.

Part design exhibition, part gorgeously styled boutique, it’s easy to see why merci is popular. The clothes and objets and decor were all impossibly chic, even down to the garden tools, the washing machine installation wall was interactive, and the cute and yummy cafe on the garden floor was packed.

The red car out front is photobait, and rightfully so! I brought home red gingham fabric napkins that tear off the roll like paper towels, and wooden cutlery carved to look like fancy silverware.
We loved Deyrolle, where no pictures are permitted. It’s a taxidermy shop with a sense of humor- literally, the lion lays down with the lamb. They have so many diverse specimens, exploring the store is a true adventure. We had no intent to purchase, but this is some seriously cool window shopping, and would recommend it highly (as long as you’re not vegan or squeamish about stuffed game).

When it came pharmacy time, I had a to-buy list ready to go. I take skincare and such really seriously, so I had done my research on the offerings. Bioderma and Embryolisse are standbys for me, so I was happy to stock up without the import tax, as well as on anti-inflammatory patches that are spendy at home, Homeoplasmine and la Roche Posay sunblock.

I’m always really into foreign grocery stores, and Paris was no exception. David had to stop me from trying to buy way more cheese than we could reasonably eat. And I loved how the Monoprix had food and family shopping all in one space, like a French Target.

But for serious foodie shopping, we went to Les Halles.

David Leibovitz has never once led me wrong, and E. Dehillerin was no exception. I lusted after the gorgeous copper pots and new knives, but made more reasonable purchases. After eating with tongs at Tickets, we got some for home. I also picked up new biscuit cutters, and I should have gotten a canelé mold- I became obsessed and wish I could make them myself!

G. Tetou is nearby, so we headed there next. This immaculate shop is filled with the most amazing assortment of food and sweets- the wall of chocolate made my mouth water. Valhrona is my preferred major chocolate brand, and their dulcey (32% caramelized white chocolate) is pretty much crack. David’s eyebrows went sky high when I requested the 3 kilo package from from behind the counter, but it’s been so delicious!

I really tried hard have some self control in there- I wanted to buy and try everything! Along with excessive quantities of chocolate, I purchased Puy lentils, chestnut cream and paste, duck pate, harissa, and puree de piment d’espelette.

I also did a fair bit of solo shopping in Paris, which is obviously less documented. David was not about to complain if I went to a boutique as he lingered over his cocktail for a few or waited in a line. So I went to Galeries Lafayette for Longchamp Le Pliage totes (navy for myself, red for a girlfriend) and also nabbed that cute cobalt convertible crossbody. I checked out Antoine et Lili, bought my favorite summer sneakers at Bensimon, grabbed some incredible tea at Mariage Freres, and stopped at more than a few well-recommended vintage boutiques. On the whole, I found them beautifully-curated but rather overpriced. That said, Atelier Catherine B is truly a little jewel box of vintage Chanel and Hermes goodies, and worth the visit just to drool.

And I peeked into lots of other stores in passing- pretty much anytime I saw something tempting. I’m good at speed shopping so David doesn’t get too impatient. There were dozens of other shops I had mapped that I didn’t get to- there is just SO much good shopping in Paris! Just another reason to return to the City of Lights…

loveRavayna

November 8, 2015

2 In style/ travel

WiW: Parisian lace and layers

I may not be Elizabeth Arden, but I sure love me a red door, almost as much as I love accenting my cherry red leather purse with a classic matte red lip. We couldn’t help but grab some pictures when we spotted this doorway as we walked to our morning croissant and cafe.

I stand firmly that leopard is a neutral- black, brown and tan all are! I adore this scarf for its compact warmth, cozy softness, and versatility. It’s not quite a blanket scarf, but plenty big enough.

This dress has given me its money’s worth- it’s H&M Conscious Collection from several seasons ago. It originally had sheer lace sleeves, but I tore one to shreds out one night. Once I had the dress tailored to sleeveless, I started wearing it all the time. Here, I layered with a light wash chambray shirt against the early morning chill.

I wore trusty black ankle booties on my toes, Nars Red Square on my lips. Rose gold aviators and a chunky Marc Jacobs watch added a little functional shine to the look.

And as the Parisian sunshine warmed the day, I shed my layers and was perfectly ready for adventures in the heat.

loveRavayna

November 5, 2015

0 In travel

an Eiffel Tower afternoon

After a healthy nap, we felt refreshed enough to unpack and put up our bags in our tiny apartment. Once done, we headed out for a late afternoon stroll. The Eiffel Tower was our destination, and I squealed like a five-year-old when I rounded a corner and spotted it for the first time, not gonna lie.

Presale reservation tickets to climb to the top of the Eiffel had already sold out when we began planning our trip, but we’d both made the climb as teens so decided to take a pass this trip. As we basked in the shadow of the tower and eyed the waiting crowd, our choice was reaffirmed. Relaxing on the lawn was the much better idea.

So we claimed a patch of grass for our own and soaked the atmosphere- watching the other tourists, declining to purchase trinkets, and just talking. We broke out the selfie stick, but weren’t concerned in the least about getting good pictures with the tower- we’d be taking care of that later in the week.

Kids at heart, we contemplated the carousel, but again, line, and I’ll be honest that it was a bit in disrepair. We chose to walk near the Seine for a little while instead, before we headed underground to the metro.

We had a lovely walk upon emerging in Alesia, headed to our new friend Jim’s house for dinner. We’d first heard of Jim Haynes and his Sunday suppers on NPR, and then my friend Julie, who visited on her honeymoon, recommended it as well. A bit of an unplugged situation, we put up the camera with our coats and enjoyed the conversation and company.

The precious garden past the gate and the accompanying cottage soon filled with interesting new friends: a few locals interspersed with people from Berlin and Nigeria, Tokyo and Toronto, Austin and Amsterdam, San Francisco and St Tropez. Can’t leave out charming Jim himself, a Louisiana boy who’s been living in Paris and hosting these salons for fifty to a hundred people weekly for thirty years. It was a lovely evening- very French, friendly and intimate. We enjoyed a scrummy homecooked bœuf bourguignon and delicious apple galette, and drank wine and visited late into the night.

loveRavayna

November 3, 2015

1 In travel

a Paris morning at Marche aux Puces

We arrived in Paris via TGV late at night, and it was after midnight by the time we got to our apartment, still needing to eat and unpack a bit before bed. We woke up just hours later to metro to Vanves, on the outskirts of Paris. Flea marketing in France was on the top of my to-do list, so I wanted to be at Le Marche aux Puces for 9 at the latest, but that was a struggle. The boulangerie en route to the metro was clutch, as it kickstarted an early morning croissant-and-cafe-creme habit. Let’s keep it real: David is not a morning person in the best of situations, we were both pretty tired, and I was nervy about not having a French data plan for gps yet. But caffeine and pain au chocolat were necessary fuel, and I was awake and back to being giddy about being in Paris by the time we got off the metro.

And as we walked into the market, I pretty much morphed into a heart-eyes emoji. ?

I didn’t mind the somewhat crowded sidewalks since they were lined with treasures, and I was in no rush. I meandered along, looking at each vendor’s wares. I nabbed an antique cheese knife, for picnicking, and a few other little bits, but lots of things were unreasonable to transport home.

I’m always interested in a le Creuset collection, so the rows of brightly enameled pots drew me in. And then I thought about having to lug that iron weight home and moved right on along.

Nothing’s more likely to get me happily digging than a basket of vintage linens. (As I wrote that, I literally thought to myself ‘my poor husband.’) R and C are difficult monograms to find, as is good vintage condition, but when I do, it’s like striking gold.

That happened a little later, as I perused a stand of vintage gloves. The darling shop madame exclaimed over my minuscule hands, and pulled a valise from near her register. It was filled with gloves too tiny to be available to try on (and stretch out) but that fit me perfectly. After lovely conversation and careful deliberation, I ended up with an elbow-length blush leather pair and handcut ivory leather racing gloves.

Vintage glassware gives me some serious lust, especially gold-accented or brightly colored. I knew from my attempts with Spanish wine that I would not be shipping souvenirs home, so I loved them and left them.

The same went for this sweet puppy. He was so gentle and loveable, I certainly wanted to take him home, but I settled for a good visit while I shopped within his domain.

I’ve been obsessing over calligraphy in the wild, so I was fascinated by the collection of travel photo journals with roundhand captions. I could have flipped through every single one- the gentleman who authored them had beautiful adventures. But after several hours of patiently supporting my shopping, David needed feeding, and we both needed to get our nap out. So we headed back to our apartment in the Marais, stopping for lunch at Poilâne, the boulangerie around the corner.

paris-poilane-saladsoup paris-pouline-gloveswfood paris-poilane-bakery

Fresh salad and the most incredible bread, fragrant cheese and velvety brandade soup, the fixed lunch menu was amazing. My duck tartine nearly made me weep with pleasure, and two glasses of rosé disappeared with the help of a few enthusiastic toasts. The most perfect little shortbread cookies, their house special “punitions,” ended the meal, and I couldn’t help but shopping in the bakery for more goodies. As we headed around the corner to our walkup to rest and unpack, I was delirious- both with exhaustion and sheer excitement and delight at being in Paris.

loveRavayna

November 2, 2015

0 In travel

eurocoes, revisited

We sat at date night, discussing plans for our next “big trip.” We’ve got a to-go list a million adventures long, so the wanderlust is real. It’s true what they say- I’m in love with places I’ve never been to. I’ve been fantasizing about a Parisian getaway since I spent 36 hours there as an awkward teenager, and moreso as David and I have grown up and travelled together. I wanted to absorb culture and cuisine, romance and rosé, to stroll and shop, and spend some time living like a local. Milking my 30th birthday, I guess I had a pretty good sales pitch, because David bought. We started pondering when, settling on a week+ in late summer. I wanted to add another European city if I could, but knew I was pushing my luck as flights are spendy from the west coast.

The next evening, David was at the theater, so I started ‘wanderlusting’- reading and researching cities, itineraries, activities, and more. I start the planning process of most vacations that way, so I can assess value before I start fleshing out the itinerary according to the budget we’ve set. I was looking at European flights on Kayak Explore, when I came across a crazy deal on flights to Barcelona. They were far from ideal- in April rather than August, for more than two weeks, and with a simply nonsensical detour through Moscow, but our schedules were surprisingly still open, and they were literally two for the price of one, and an anomaly- other cities/months were significantly pricier. I’ve rarely met a sale I didn’t like, so I justified the longer stay with flight savings, and went down the rabbit hole. I browsed available apartments, and by the time David got home around midnight, I had had planes, trains, and several airbnb’s ready to discuss. Poor guy- I essentially steamrolled him, but when we went to bed sometime much later, we were booked to fly to Barcelona, had apartment booking requests out, and I was beside myself with glee.

And y’all- it was loverly. Filled with so much deliciousness and delight, it was shamelessly romantic, occasionally perfectly imperfect, and such a fabulous trip on the whole. We walked and rode the metro all over Paris and Barcelona, took a million pictures, had so many adventures and experiences and amazing eats (live to eat, I always say!) and I’m so excited to reminisce as I share them with y’all. I’ll be breaking it down into manageable chunks, beginning with Barcelona, where I’m already pining to return as soon as reasonably possible…